Quick—name the most famous grilled dish in Spain: Chuleta (Spain’s famous salt grilled rib steak)? Rodobalo (garlic grilled turbot from the Basque country)? Both are popular, but Spain’s most famous grilled masterpiece is…paella.

That’s right, paella (pronounced pah-YAY-a), for the true, the traditional, the authentic way to cook paella is outdoors over a campfire. Alas, mediocre versions of this glorious rice dish—cooked in a wide, flat-bottom pan also known as a paella—abound, and even in its native Valencia, the wood-grilled version is hard to find.

First, some background.

Authentic Spanish paella, which was first seen during the 18th century near the coastal city of Valencia, has much in common with American barbecue. It was poor peoples’ food, cooked over open fires (usually fueled by orangewood or vine clippings or even pine cones) for the midday meal by laborers for laborers, and nearly always by men. Cooks developed their own “secret” recipes, and jealously guarded them. Competitions sprang up. Today, a “Paella King” is crowned each year in the northwest region of Galicia.

Originally, the key ingredients for a traditional paella Valenciana were scavenged close by—the most important being the unique strains of short-grain rice known as arroz bomba or Calaspara that grew (and still grow) in the lagoon-like marshes on Spain’s eastern seaboard. Local produce, like bell peppers and runner beans, added color, while saffron and pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika) ramped up the flavor. Protein came in whatever form people could scrounge it: vegetables, garden snails, rabbit, or the occasional duck—shrimp, clams, etc., if they lived by the sea.

So what constitutes an authentic paella today? It depends on where you are and the occasion. Even in Valencia, paella has multiple personalities: “Paella de mariscos” comes crammed with shellfish or other seafood; “paella mixta” would include seafood and meat such as chicken, pork, chorizo, sausage, or all of the above. There’s even a green paella from Alicante flavored with rabbit, snails and green herbs that mimics the first paellas.

But before you get started, there are a few things you should know about a dish that should be in every grillmaster’s repertory:

1. A paella pan is the preferred equipment for cooking this classic dish. It not only looks cool, but it encourages the rice to caramelize into a golden brown layer (called soccorat) on the bottom of the pan—the best part, some people say, of a well-made paella. You can find one at Spanish grocery stores or cookware shops. We recently added a stainless steel paella pan to the Best of Barbecue line. In a pinch, you can substitute a large frying pan with a heatproof handle.

2. If possible, do cook the paella the traditional way—over a wood campfire. If you go this route (and I encourage you to), a Tuscan grill will help you position the pan securely and stably over the fire. Cooking paella over a campfire can get mighty hot: you might also wish to invest in a grill hoe. The long handle makes it ideal for stirring the paella.

3. Like risotto or pilaf, a good paella lives or dies by the rice. The traditional bomba or Calaspara rice are available at Spanish markets or from Internet purveyors such as www.tienda.com or www.thespanishtable.com. Italian Arborio rice can also be used, although you may need to use slightly more liquid to keep the rice from drying out.

4. Chorizo is a Spanish sausage made with large chunks of cured pork. (It differs from Mexican or Spanish Caribbean chorizo, although the latter can be used in a pinch.) Piquillo peppers are small, bright red peppers with a sweet aromatic flavor—they’re almost always sold bottled or canned. Pimentón is a Spanish smoked paprika. Again, these are available at Spanish grocery stores, or via www.tienda.com or www.thespanishtable.com. Red bell peppers and regular paprika make credible substitutes.

5. Paella is a festive and abundant dish that is meant to be shared communally. Give each diner a wooden spoon for scooping out a portion. Accompany the paella with grilled garlic bread (How to Grill, page 418) for sopping up the juices, a green salad, and either White Sangria (see Ribs, page 268) or a crisp, dry Spanish wine such as an Albariño or Txakoli.

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A WORD FROM WORKMAN

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RECIPES

PAELLA ON THE GRILL

Source: Recipe from the upcoming book “Planet Barbecue” by Steven Raichlen (May 2010)
Method: Direct grilling
Serves: 4

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 cured chorizo sausage (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced (see Note)
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 ripe tomato, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 cups Valencia-style rice, such as Bomba or Calaspara
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 to 5 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

1 fryer chicken (3-1/2 to 4 pounds), cut into 8 even-size pieces
1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 pound squid, cleaned, cut into 1-inch pieces, and skewered on bamboo skewers
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed
12 mussels, scrubbed
1/4 cup cooked green peas (or if you have an unbelievable amount of patience, use fresh peas skewered on a slender bamboo skewer)

You’ll also need: Logs or chunks of hardwood for the fire or hardwood chips (soaked in water for 30 minutes, then drained); paella pan; grill hoe; Tuscan grill (optional—helpful if working on a wood fire).

1. Place the saffron in a small bowl with 2 teaspoons warm water. Let soak for 5 minutes.

2. Set up your grill for direct grilling and build a 3-zone fire. In the best of all possible worlds, you’d build and work over a campfire. Alternatively, you’d work on a large charcoal grill (like a Weber Ranch) or gas grill. If working on a charcoal grill, toss a log or some wood chunks on the fire to generate smoke. If working on a gas grill, place the wood chips in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch.

3. Place the paella pan over the hottest part of your fire. Add the olive oil and a piece of onion and heat until the onion sizzles boisterously in the oil. Add the remaining onion, the bell pepper, and chorizo and cook over high heat, stirring with a long-handled implement, like a grill hoe, until the onions begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, parsley, and tomato halfway through (after 2 minutes). If the mixture starts to burn, slide the pan to a cooler part of the grill.

4. Stir in the rice and sauté until the grains look shiny, 1 minute. Stir in the soaked saffron and wine and boil for 1 minute. Stir in 4 cups stock and adjust the heat (by moving the paella pan closer or further away from hot part of the fire) to obtain a gentle simmer. Gently simmer the rice until soft, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the 5th cup of stock if needed, and add salt and pepper to taste. While you’re at it, season the chicken pieces, shrimp, and squid with salt and pepper.

5. Meanwhile, on another part of the fire (if working on a campfire, position your Tuscan grill over the embers), grill the chicken pieces, starting skin side down. This will take 6 to 8 minutes per side, working over a medium-high heat. Once the chicken pieces are crusty, brown, and cooked through, add them to the paella. After about 12 minutes, place the clams and mussels on the grate and grill until the shells pop open. Transfer the bivalves to the paella with tongs, taking care not to spill the juices. Brush and oil the grate and place the shrimp and squid on the grate. Grill until firm and white, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Add the shrimp and squid to the paella. In the event you have been obsessive enough to skewer the peas, place on the grill and grill until lightly browned and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Unskewer the peas over the paella.

6. Taste the paella for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed. If you’ve done this right and the stars are in alignment, the rice will be tender just as all the stock is absorbed and the proteins are cooked. You may need to add more stock or you may need to cook the rice a little longer to absorb any excess stock. Don’t worry—your paella will only improve in the process. Serve at once, with a crisp dry Spanish wine, like an Albarino or Txakoli. Get ready for the best paella on Planet Barbecue.

Note: If using raw chorizo, available in bulk or stuffed into casings like sausage, please cook thoroughly before using.

VARIATION—PAELLA “PRIMAVERA”

I created this meatless paella for some vegetarian friends and for my first Primal Grill TV show. For a really dramatic presentation, fire up two kettle grills. Use one for cooking the rice and the second one for grilling the vegetables. Or use a large charcoal grill, like a Weber Ranch, or a large gas grill. If your grill space is limited, grill the vegetables first (this could even be done at a previous grill session) and grill the paella to order.

Source “Primal Grill with Steven Raichlen,” Season 1
Method: Direct grilling
Serves: 4

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch strips
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 ripe tomato, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 cups Valencia-style rice, such as Bomba or Calaspara
1 cup cooked, drained garbanzo beans
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 to 5 cups vegetable stock (preferably homemade)
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper

For the vegetables:

8 mini bell peppers, skewered on bamboo skewers
1 large sweet onion, peeled and cut into 6 or 8 wedges, skewered on bamboo
 skewers
1 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut sharply on the diagonal into 1/4-inch thick slices
1 medium yellow squash, trimmed and cut sharply on the diagonal into 1/4-inch thick slices
12 cherry tomatoes, skewered on bamboo skewers
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish
3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, oregano, thyme, and/or basil (or use 1-1/2 tablespoons dried herbs)
12 cloves garlic in their skins, skewered on bamboo skewers or toothpicks
1/4 cup cooked green peas (or if you have an unbelievable amount of patience, fresh peas skewered on a slender bamboo skewer)

You’ll also need: Logs or chunks of hardwood for the fire or hardwood chips (soaked in water for 30 minutes, then drained); paella pan; grill hoe; Tuscan grill (optional—helpful if working on a wood fire).

1. Place the saffron in a small bowl with 2 teaspoons warm water. Let soak for 5 minutes.

2. Set up your grill for direct grilling and build a 3-zone fire. In the best of all possible worlds, you’d build and work over a campfire. Alternatively, you’d work on a large charcoal grill (like a Weber Ranch) or gas grill. If working on a charcoal grill, toss a log or some wood chunks on the fire to generate smoke. If working on a gas grill, place the wood chips in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch.

3. Place the paella pan over the hottest part of your fire. Add the olive oil and a piece of onion and heat until the onion sizzles boisterously in the oil. Add the remaining onion and red bell pepper and cook over high heat, stirring with a long-handled implement, like a grill hoe, until the onions begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, parsley, and tomato halfway through (after 2 minutes). If the mixture starts to burn, slide the pan to a cooler part of the grill.

4. Stir in the rice and sauté until the grains look shiny, 1 minute. Add the garbanzo beans and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the soaked saffron and wine and boil for 1 minute. Stir in 4 cups stock and adjust the heat (by moving the paella pan closer or further away from hot part of the fire) to obtain a gentle simmer. Gently simmer the rice until soft, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the 5th cup of stock if needed, and add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Meanwhile, lightly brush the mini bell peppers, onion, zucchini, yellow squash, and, tomatoes with olive oil. Season on both sides with salt and pepper and sprinkle with herbs. On another part of the fire (if working on a campfire, position your Tuscan grill over the embers), grill the peppers, onion zucchini, yellow squash, cherry tomatoes, and garlic until golden brown—even darkly browned—on the outside and tender. This will take 3 to 6 minutes per side, depending on the vegetable—the peppers and onion will take longer than zucchini and tomatoes. You may have to work over a lower heat (or at the edge of the grill) for the garlic—it should be tender and browned, but not burnt. In the event you have been obsessive enough to skewer the peas, place on the grill and grill until lightly browned and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side.

6. The last 5 minutes of cooking the paella, stir the vegetables into the rice, removing and discarding the skewers. (Slip the burned skins off the garlic.) Taste the paella for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed. If you’ve done this right and the stars are in alignment, the rice will be tender just as all the stock is absorbed and the vegetables are cooked. You may need to add more stock or you may need to cook the rice a little longer to absorb any excess stock. Get ready for the second best paella on Planet Barbecue.

NEXT MONTH IN UP IN SMOKE:

More about the primal pleasures of grilling over wood.

Yours in righteous grilling,

Steven Raichlen, Editor-in-Chief and Grillmaster
Nancy Loseke, Features Editor

Follow Steven on Twitter at http://twitter.com/sraichlen

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