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When Argentineans say grilled cheese, they really mean it. Not cheese sandwiches browned in butter on the griddle, but thick slabs of provoleta (a firm cow’s milk cheese similar to Provolone) seared on the gridiron until they are partially melted and lightly browned. It’s mandatory fare at any Argentinean steakhouse. You can achieve similar results on an indoor grill. When I tested this recipe at the Greenbrier, the whole kitchen staff came running—it’s amazing how a few simple ingredients grilled indoors can produce billboard-size flavors. The key to grilling Provolone successfully is to choose a firm, well-aged cheese that will hold its shape when grilled. If you live in a community with a large Argentinean population, like Miami, you may be able to find provoleta at a grocery store. Otherwise, use a hard, aged Italian Provolone or, for even more flavor, Provolone laced with peppercorns.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 thick slices provoleta or Provolone (each about 3/4 inches thick and
8 ounces)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns
2 teaspoons dried oregano
Crusty bread or bruschetta for serving

Brush each slice of cheese on both sides with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the olive oil and sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of cracked pepper and oregano on each side of the slices.

Cook the cheese slices, following the instructions for any of the grills below, until they are browned and partially melted. The idea is to grill the cheese enough so that the exterior is brown but not so much that the slices melt into gooey puddles.

Transfer the grilled cheese to a platter or plates and serve with bread.

If you have…

CONTACT GRILL The cheese melts well on a contact grill, but won’t brown very much. Use this method only as a last resort. To keep the cheese from sticking to the grill, once you have sprinkled the cracked pepper and oregano over it, lightly dust the slices of cheese with flour. Preheat the grill; if your contact grill has a temperature control, preheat the grill to high. Place the drip pan under the front of the grill. When ready to cook, lightly oil the grill surface. Place the cheese slices on the hot grill, then close the lid. The cheese will be done after cooking 2 to 4 minutes.

GRILL PAN Place the grill pan on the stove and preheat it to high over medium heat. When the grill pan is hot a drop of water will skitter in the pan. When ready to cook, lightly oil the ridges of the grill pan. Place the cheese slices in the hot grill pan. The cheese will be done after cooking 2 to 4 minutes per side.

BUILT-IN GRILL Preheat the grill to high, then, if it does not have a nonstick surface, brush and oil the grill grate. Place the cheese slices on the hot grate. The cheese will be done after cooking 2 to 4 minutes per side. Take care to remove it from the grate before the cheese melts into the grill.

FREESTANDING GRILL Preheat the grill to high; there’s no need to oil the grate. Place the cheese slices on the hot grill. The cheese will be done after cooking 2 to 4 minutes per side.

FIREPLACE GRILL Rake red hot embers under the gridiron and preheat it for 3 to 5 minutes; you want a hot, 2 to 3 Mississippi fire. When ready to cook, brush and oil the gridiron. Place the cheese slices on the hot grate. The cheese will be done after cooking 2 to 4 minutes per side. Take care to remove it from the grate before the cheese melts onto the embers.