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These spicy wings reflect Singapore’s incredible ethnic diversity. Five-spice powder is a Chinese flavoring, while the ketjap manis (sweet soy sauce) comes from Indonesia. The frying of the spice paste is characteristic of Malaysian and Nonya (“grandmother”) cooking, but the place where I actually sampled the wings was the Arab Market. Frying the spice paste creates a complex flavor that will make these some of the best wings you’ve ever tasted.

The vendor who shared this recipe with me used parboiled wings, which he slathered with spice paste and finished on the grill. Given the hundreds of wings sold each morning, parboiling was a way for him to shorten the cooking time to a manageable duration. Since you and I are in less of a rush than the average market cook, I suggest you take the time to marinate the raw wings in the spice paste and cook them from start to finish on the grill.

Note that although this recipe may look a little complicated, the actual preparation time is about 20 minutes.

16 whole chicken wings (about 3 1/2 pounds)

3 large shallots, peeled

6 cloves garlic, peeled

1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger

2 to 10 Thai, serrano, or small jalapeno chiles, seeded (for hotter wings, leave the seeds in)

1/2 cup vegetable oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis) or 1 tablespoon each regular soy sauce and

molasses

1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

1. Rinse the wings under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Make 2 or 3 deep slashes, to the bone, in the meaty part of each wing. Place in a large bowl and refrigerate while you prepare the spice paste.

2. Combine the shallots, garlic, ginger, and chiles in a food processor and process to a smooth paste. Add 1/4 cup of the oil, the soy sauces, and five-spice powder and process until smooth.

3. Heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil in a wok or small, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring constantly, until thick, brown, and very flavorful, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.

4.Add the cooled spice paste to the chicken and turn the wings to coat thoroughly. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for at least six hours or as long as 24 (the longer the better).

5. Preheat the grill to medium-high.

6. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Arrange the wings on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until the thicker wing sections are o longer pink near the bone, 12 to 16 minutes in all.

7. Transfer the wings to a serving plate and serve.

Makes 16 whole wings; serves 4 to 8 as an appetizer.