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Just in Time for the Holidays: A Prime Rib Primer

UP IN SMOKE
Just in Time for the Holidays: A Prime Rib Primer
December 24th, 2013
 

Dear Up in Smoke Subscriber,

Prime rib is one of the most intimidating hunks of meat a grill master will ever face, capable of making—and breaking—reputations. It’s certainly the most expensive: A 10-pound roast serving eight to ten adults could set you back over $200 at your local supermarket, or over $800 if you opt to serve Wagyu beef from a pricy yup-scale online purveyor. (Not including shipping.)

But when it comes to an eye-popping, show-stopping, unrepentantly carnivorous centerpiece for a holiday dinner or New Year’s Eve feast, there is nothing that can beat this magisterial joint of meat.

As long as it’s properly cooked, of course. The most egregious sin you can commit against prime rib is to overcook it. Do that, and it’s game over.

If you plan on investing in a prime rib now or in the future, here’s what you should know before you whip out your checkbook, credit card, or first born:

  • A full prime rib—sometimes referred to as a standing rib roast or a rib-eye roast—is comprised of the sixth through the twelfth ribs (seven bones in all). Trimmed, it can weigh up to 14 pounds or more. Like beef tenderloin, this large tapered muscle receives little exercise, making it finely textured and exceedingly tender.
  • Confusingly for the consumer, the term “prime rib” predates the USDA meat grading system. Most supermarkets sell “choice” prime rib, with USDA “prime” beef going to restaurants and high-end purveyors.
  • If buying bone-in prime rib, figure on feeding two people per bone, or one pound per person. (A 4-bone roast weighs about 8 pounds and will feed eight people. It fits comfortably on most grills.) If buying boneless prime rib, allow 1/2 pound per person—more if you want leftovers, and you definitely want leftovers.
  • You’ll pay a premium for organic prime rib or grass-fed beef. For me, the lack of antibiotics and growth hormones are worth the price.

Okay, you splurged. What’s next?

First, a bit of knifemanship. If a rack has not been Frenched by the butcher, you’ll want to do it yourself. Frenching is a fancy term for scraping the exposed part of the bones clean of meat, fat, and cartilage before roasting. Come to think of it, perfectionist that you are, Frenching isn’t optional at all. Here’s how you do it:

  • Lay the roast on a cutting board meat side up. Using a sharp knife, cut through the fat cap straight down to the rack of bones, then come in through the side, your knife parallel to the bones, until you intersect your first cut. (For photos, see page 33 of How to Grill.) Remove the resulting fatty wedge.
  • Next, cut out the pieces of meat between the ends of the ribs. (Roast these alongside the prime rib so you’ll have drippings for Yorkshire pudding).
  • Use a small sharp paring knife to thoroughly scrape the bones clean.
  • Finally, trim the remaining fat covering the roast to a thickness of 1/2 inch.

Next, a bit of bondage. Prime rib has naturally occurring lines of fat that divide the “eye” of the muscle from the spinalis dorsi, commonly known as the cap. Tying the roast with butcher’s string between the bones (bone-in roast) or at 1-1/2-inch intervals (boneless roast) will discourage separation along these natural fault lines as the meat cooks. It will not only be easier to carve, but will make a more professional-looking presentation on the plate.

Next, season the prime rib. There are two approaches—studding and rubbing—each produces excellent results. To stud a prime rib, make small slits in the roast with the tip of a paring knife and fill them with slivers of garlic, sprigs of rosemary or other herbs, pieces of anchovy or cheese, etc.

To rub the roast, you make a dry spice blend of salt, pepper, dried rosemary, and oregano, or a wet paste of salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary and olive oil (puree these ingredients in the food processor). Apply these flavorings in a thick layer over the surface of the prime rib. For even more flavor, do both. (Yes, sometimes more is more.)

Finally, if you don’t own an instant-read meat thermometer or remote thermometer (newer models come digital and wireless), invest in one before you start grilling. Trust me, it will pay for itself.

And now the moment of truth. There are three ways to cook a prime rib on the grill:

  • You can smoke the roast from start to finish
  • Smoke-roast it using a combination of indirect grilling and smoking
  • Or my personal favorite: spit-roast it on a rotisserie.

Decide whether you want your prime rib rare (120 to 125 degrees), medium-rare (130 to 135 degrees), or medium (140 to 145 degrees), remembering the internal temperature will rise 5 to 10 degrees after you’ve removed the meat from the grill.

Finally, let the prime rib rest on a large grooved cutting board, loosely tented with foil, for 15 to 20 minutes. Notice I said loosely tented—really, you just drape a sheet of foil over the prime rib. Do not bunch the foil around the prime rib or you’ll make the crust soggy.

Just before serving, snip the strings. Carve the roast off the bones using a carving knife or electric knife. Run the knife along the curved interior of the ribs. Cut the ribs into individual bones for gnawing. Warning: you’ll have enough meat for eight people, but bones for only four. Figure out ahead of time how you’ll ration them out.

Then cut the meaty part of the roast crosswise against the grain into slices 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick. Serve at once with any juices that accumulate in the well of the cutting board.

Horseradish sauce is the traditional condiment. Get the electrifying Barbecue! Bible version.

Now you can take your bows.

Do you want to share your own knowledge about the barbecue and grilling world? Become a contributor on the Barbecue! Bible Wiki. You can add new entries about grilling techniques, food from around Planet Barbecue, barbecue gear, and more.

If you have a burning question or a live-fire dilemma that you need help with, post it to our new Ask Steven forum. Remember, there are no secrets between grill masters!

Yours in righteous grilling,

Steven Raichlen

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