Step 1: Rotisserie method: Set up your grill for spit-roasting and preheat to high. (To be strictly authentic, spit-roast over charcoal.)

Step 2: Cut the top sirloin crosswise (across the grain) into slices 3 inches wide. Skewer each slice on the spit through the ends in such a way that the fat forms a rounded curve on the outside like the letter “C.” Skewer the pieces one next to the other—you should have 2 or 3 in a row. Generously, and I mean generously, season the meat on all sides with salt.

Step 3: Attach the spit to the rotisserie motor and spit-roast the meat until darkly browned on the outside, but still rare to medium-rare inside (125 to 135 degrees), 20 to 30 minutes.

Step 4: To serve picanha Brazilian-style, carry the spit to the table and carve the meat into thin slices onto each person’s plate. Alternatively, transfer the picanha to a cutting board and thinly slice it across the grain, including a bit of fat and a bit of meat in each slice.

Step 5: Direct grill method: Here’s how picanha is grilled in Brazilian homes, not to mention at grill joints in neighboring Uruguay and Argentina.

Cut the top sirloin crosswise (across the grain) into slices 1-1/2 inches wide.

Step 6: Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. Brush and oil the grill grate.

Step 7: Arrange the meat pieces fat side down on the grill. Direct grill until fat is partially rendered, crisp, and brown, 2 to 4 minutes, moving the meat as needed to dodge flare-ups. Turn each piece of meat on its side and grill until browned, 2 minutes per side. Grill the bottom the same way. You’re looking for medium rare—an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in one of the narrow ends to the center of the meat will read about 135 degrees.

Step 8: Transfer the picanha to a cutting board, fat side up, and let rest for a couple of minutes. Carve it into thin slices across the grain, including a bit of fat and a bit of meat in each slice.