Step 1: Rinse your hands under cold water. Divide the beef into 4 equal portions. Shape each portion into a patty about 1 inch thick and slightly larger in diameter than the buns. Work with a light touch, handling the meat as little as possible. Make a slight depression in the center of the patties; they should be slightly concave. You can form the burgers up to 6 hours ahead. Arrange the burgers in a single layer on a plate lined with plastic wrap; cover with additional plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Step 2: Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat it to high. (In a perfect world, you’d grill over a wood fire.) If working over charcoal, you can add a couple handfuls of soaked, drained hardwood chips to generate optional wood smoke.

Step 3: When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the burgers on the hot grate and grill them until the bottoms are browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a spatula, gently turn the burgers over. (Never press them with the spatula.) Continue grilling the burgers until cooked to taste, 3 to 5 minutes more. Unless you’re absolutely sure about the purity of your meat, cook beef burgers to medium—160 degrees. (Insert an instant-read meat thermometer through the side of the burger toward the center.) Transfer the burgers to a warm plate and put a teaspoon of butter on top. Let the burgers rest for 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 4: Lightly butter the buns, then grill, cut sides down, until golden, 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Step 5: To assemble the burgers, spread the buns with “Secret Sauce,” if using, or whatever condiment(s) you prefer. Place a burger on top of the sauce and top it with a lettuce leaf and a tomato slice and any embellishments you like. Replace the top of the bun.