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CG Mod Cooking Chamber Gasket with pics

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Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 2:11 pm
sixfofalcon medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 211
Location: Philadelphia, PA
I ended up fixing the gaskets this morning.

Sanded front and back edges w/ D/A sander:
Image



Finished up the ends w/ Dremel drum sander:
Image



De-greased w/ toluene and installed gaskets w/ copper RTV:
Image



I have an 8.5# pork shoulder smoking in the CG at the moment. There are no appreciable leaks in the gasket seal and I don't think the RTV is going to want to let go of the bare metal any time soon. 8)
Weber Performer
22.5" WSM
CG Smokin' Pro (lots o' mods, but basically "retired")

Post Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:54 pm
Meat Popsicle medium-rare
medium-rare

Posts: 66
Location: San Jose, CA
Looks good.

I checked mine today and the RTV seems to be holding solidly.
Building my carbon footprint one chimney-full at a time.

Post Mon May 18, 2009 8:57 am
triedntru rare
rare

Posts: 16
Location: Kansas City, KS
I can certainly attest to the impact of sealing up a Chargriller after this weekend's experience.

This weekend was my son's baptism, and with all the family in town I had a good excuse to smoke a 12lb. brisket and a 8lb. butt on Saturday. I've had my Duo for over a year now, and have gotten pretty familiar with how it operates.

I read somewhere on here that you can make a foil "snake" and use that to seal your smoker. I did just that, and lightly crimped the foil over the bottom lip of the three unhinged sides of the smoker. After putting the meat and thermometers in place, I closed the lid and pressed it down firmly to make the foil shape itself and seal the air gaps.

I honestly didn't expect to see that much difference, because I didn't think those air gaps around the lid were that big of a deal. I thought the heat losses through the walls of the sfb would far outweigh any efficiency gains by sealing the main chamber. Boy was I wrong!

Prior to sealing, it was normal for me to remove the charcoal basket and give it a good shake (I know I know. It's kingsford), then add more hot coals once an hour. After sealing, I was able to reduce this task to once every 2.5 hours.

I wasn't a believer and I was absolutely floored by the results.

I think I'm more comfortable doing the foil method, rather than messing with the z-bar and gasket material. But, to each his own.
Image

Post Mon Jun 01, 2009 2:26 pm
sixfofalcon medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 211
Location: Philadelphia, PA
triedntru wrote:
I think I'm more comfortable doing the foil method, rather than messing with the z-bar and gasket material. But, to each his own.

Nothing wrong with using foil! If you do it right, the foil can be reused for several cooks before it becomes problematic. The sourcing and fabricating involved with doing the gaskets is a bit more involved, but once it's done it's done.

The bottom line is that those gaps on the sides and back are huge, and even a slight breeze can have a tremendous impact if you don't seal them up somehow.
Weber Performer
22.5" WSM
CG Smokin' Pro (lots o' mods, but basically "retired")

Post Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:31 am
burnone raw
raw

Posts: 1
anyone try felt like the bge has around it's opening? picked some up at ace this week since i was looking at the bge (not to buy! my cg duo is sufficient). it has a self adhesive backing. ($14.99)

Post Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:34 pm
MitchSchaft medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 227
Location: Bartlett, TN
Do you happen to have a link? I'm gonna seal mine soon to get ready for a Thanksgiving smoke. I think I'll start with the foil seal.
I'd also like to know if the seals are still holding up for you guys that did the permenant mod. Should I get 5/8" rope? All you're doing is roping the back and the sides or the front, too?

Post Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:54 am
Meat Popsicle medium-rare
medium-rare

Posts: 66
Location: San Jose, CA
The rope gasket in aluminum channel is pretty robust. Since the gasket is compressed by the edge of the lid and the channel prevents the gasket from moving away from it, there is not much to go wrong.

Once done, it should last the life of the CG. You can easily replace the rope if it becomes too ugly from spills and spatters.

And, yes on the 5/8" rope. The larger size makes the fit less critical.
Building my carbon footprint one chimney-full at a time.

Post Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:46 pm
megman6 rare
rare

Posts: 49
The Z-bar link is not good anymore. Anyone knows where you can buy such z-bar and the rope?

Post Sat Sep 03, 2011 12:24 pm
Ynot rare
rare

Posts: 23
Location: SoCal
megman6 wrote:
The Z-bar link is not good anymore. Anyone knows where you can buy such z-bar


Wondering the same thing. Anyone have a source?

And are there any updates on adhesives? What's worked? What's failed?
Char Griller Trio
Smokey Joe
Microwave

Post Sat Sep 03, 2011 1:16 pm
sixfofalcon medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 211
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Can't comment on the Z-bar, but the copper RTV silicone adhesive on my CG is still holding firm, despite the grill being outdoors and uncovered this whole time. I think the surface preparation is key. Nothing is going to stick to a greasy, seasoned surface. It's worth the elbow grease to sand it down to bare metal and swab with acetone or alcohol if you want the adhesive to do its job indefinitely.

FWIW my CG is now stationed at my brother's vacation home, but it still gets regular use in the spring and summer months. The SFB is developing pinholes in the bottom, but it's still functional for direct grilling. We could probably slap on a new SFB and get another 5 years out of it.
Weber Performer
22.5" WSM
CG Smokin' Pro (lots o' mods, but basically "retired")

Post Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:38 pm
Ynot rare
rare

Posts: 23
Location: SoCal
sixfofalcon,
Thanks for the reply.

About the copper RTV silicone adhesive, is that the one by Permatex?

Thanks
Char Griller Trio
Smokey Joe
Microwave

Post Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:50 pm
sixfofalcon medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 211
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Yup. They also make Red RTV silicone which is NSF certified for use around food, if that matters to you. I don't think it's that critical to have the NSF certification for the gasket location, since direct food contact is very unlikely. The Red does have a lower heat temperature rating than the Copper. Either one is probably fine.
Weber Performer
22.5" WSM
CG Smokin' Pro (lots o' mods, but basically "retired")

Post Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:43 pm
Ynot rare
rare

Posts: 23
Location: SoCal
Okay, so I went to my local stove shop today and got my rope. I talked with the owner and he said to try "this" adhesive and show me how it's worked on a stove. I picked it up, not realizing that the failed brand mentioned in these threads was "Rutland" until I got home. That's what I'll be returning, it's "Rutland Fiberglass Stove Gasket Cement" that withstands 2000°F. No reason for me to experiment since yours has worked so well. Now I'll have to track down the Z-bar.

I can't tell from the pics, but did you use the Z-bar on the rear or did you simply adhere the rope to the cover?

Would it help to do the same treatment to the SFB?

Thanks
Tony
Char Griller Trio
Smokey Joe
Microwave

Post Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:51 pm
sixfofalcon medium-well
medium-well

Posts: 211
Location: Philadelphia, PA
There's not really enough room for a thick gasket on the SFB door, but you can make a thin gasket by running a small bead of RTV silicone around the underside of the door, then closing the door so the silicone fills any gaps. You'll need to use something like wax paper to keep the silicone from sticking to the actual SFB and gluing the door shut. I sprayed Pam on the opposing surface, but that didn't release as nicely as I had hoped and there was some damage to the silicone seal when I tried to open the door later, so I think wax paper would have been a better choice.

The rope gasket is simply glued across the back edge of the lid. There's no need for additional support as the gasket just gets pinched in place whenever the lid is closed.

I didn't actually use the Z-bar anywhere on the CG because I couldn't find it locally. Instead I added the more common "L" shaped aluminum brackets to the sides of the main chamber (on the outside.) I had to notch them around the bolts for the warming rack. I used a flat gasket "tape" on top of the brackets and on the underside of the front of the lid. It's not as resilient as the rope gasket but you can still get a nice seal if you are careful about where you position the side brackets (close the lid and snug them up against the lid before you drill & rivet the brackets in place on the bottom half of the main chamber.)
Weber Performer
22.5" WSM
CG Smokin' Pro (lots o' mods, but basically "retired")

Post Wed Sep 07, 2011 11:34 am
Ynot rare
rare

Posts: 23
Location: SoCal
sixfofalcon,
Thanks. Is there any chance of you providing some pics?
Char Griller Trio
Smokey Joe
Microwave

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