UDS / Homemade Barrel Cookers

CanadaBBQGuy wrote:

Wow - a trio of UDSes! Nice work, swamprb - I especially like the Mega!

Same here!

swamprb wrote:

Been a while since I checked in - so here are a few pics of some of my drums. I love the Drums!

Didn't know you were a member here swamprb. I see you on the other forum all the time. And I PM'd you a few times. Love what you've done with your drum builds!!! Especially, the Mega!!
I just cannot find a clean unlined drum!!! Got tired of looking.

I lurkalot! But I had posted a few pics of early drum builds on this thread, and even got a lot of support from members here.

swamprb wrote:

I lurkalot! But I had posted a few pics of early drum builds on this thread, and even got a lot of support from members here.

I'm kind of the opposite. I lurk some on the other site, but I haven't posted there in quite awhile. Do most of my posting here. The other site is great too though - lots of great info & ideas.

I keep reading how you can just shut down the airflow and choke the fire to save the fuel when you're done. I have no problem doing that with my drum, but I have moisture in the drum everytime I go to use it. I assume it is from condensation. So--two questions:

1. How do you keep condensation out of the drum? When it's 90 degrees and hunid, then drops cooler at night, condensation form inside the drum.

2. Since there is condensation inside the drum, the left over fuel gets damp, and then doesn't bur properly. How do you store the remains in order to keep it dry and ready to go?

Thanks.

burgers wrote:

I keep reading how you can just shut down the airflow and choke the fire to save the fuel when you're done. I have no problem doing that with my drum, but I have moisture in the drum everytime I go to use it. I assume it is from condensation. So--two questions:

1. How do you keep condensation out of the drum? When it's 90 degrees and hunid, then drops cooler at night, condensation form inside the drum.

2. Since there is condensation inside the drum, the left over fuel gets damp, and then doesn't bur properly. How do you store the remains in order to keep it dry and ready to go?

Thanks.

Not sure that humidity is your problem there. I live in an extremely humid climate and I've never had that problem with condensation.

Question: When you folks do a no weld UDS, how do you add the vents and valves to the sides?Once you have drilled the hole, I assume that you just thread them in through the steel with a pipe nipple, or maybe use a jam nut on the inside to draw them tight?

One of our freight accounts is a large container company, and they have new, unlined heavy guage drums with removable top and ring clamp for $25. I already have my first Weber still in the treasure pile (thank heavens it missed the last rip to the scrapyard when I replaced it with another one) and the grate and dome are in good shape. Heck, as long as a new drum is cheap, and I have a bunch of the fixin's sitting here, I probably should build me one of these critters for the sake of experimentation.

ronnyvous1 wrote:

Question: When you folks do a no weld UDS, how do you add the vents and valves to the sides?Once you have drilled the hole, I assume that you just thread them in through the steel with a pipe nipple, or maybe use a jam nut on the inside to draw them tight?

One of our freight accounts is a large container company, and they have new, unlined heavy guage drums with removable top and ring clamp for $25. I already have my first Weber still in the treasure pile (thank heavens it missed the last rip to the scrapyard when I replaced it with another one) and the grate and dome are in good shape. Heck, as long as a new drum is cheap, and I have a bunch of the fixin's sitting here, I probably should build me one of these critters for the sake of experimentation.

For my no-weld UDS, I drilled 4 holes for my intakes using a step bit. I was careful to drill the the holes large enough for the pipe nipples to fit, but small enough to where they would thread in tightly. I also used conduit nuts, one on the inside of the drum and one on the outside, to snug up to the drum to hold the nipples in place while screwing on & off the valve & pipe caps.

$25 for a new unlined open top drum. That's a great deal. If I could come across that deal, I'd pick one up right now and build another.

Thanks for the info, it seems like 3/4" is the common size used on the lower vents, right? I noticed some with an elbow and a riser going up the side of the drum. Is this to enhance draft? The object of the game seems to be to keep the vents below the fuel. Also, what is the consensus of a good spacing between racks if I want to do two surfaces for cooking?

I actually used 1/2" pipe nipples for intakes - 4 of them. One has a ball valve and the other 3 have pipe caps in case I need a little extra air.

As far as your cooking grates, make sure you lower one is at least 24" above your charcoal grate (not the top of the basket, but the grate itself). The way mine worked out, that gave me around 7" of space between the 2 cooking grates, using a weber kettle lid. I've never actually used mine with 2 cooking grates yet though.

Northwoods Smoke wrote:

Here is another good pic tutorial that was BBQ Brethren inspired, complete with a parts list.

http://www.thepickledpig.com/forums/gen ... t-1-a.html

The only thing I don't agree with is mounting the temp. guage in the lid...

Thanks for posting this link North...my original firebox worked but not for as long as I had hoped. So I went with a modified design of this link.

Here are the pics. It ended up costing me about $20 since my brother-in-law donated a lot of the metal for it.

I got a charcoal grate for a 22.5" Weber Kettle. Welded it on to a home made ash pan. Then used 3/4" #9 expanded metal (9" tall) for the walls. Put a rod across the opening to lift it out







I am going to do a test burn to see what I get outta 10 lbs of coal tomorrow night.

I can get a nearly new 26 in char- broil kettle ( a tree limb fell on it ) I don't need it as a grill but was thinking of making an UDS . I can also get some tin roofing to use as a center section . If I do it I'll be making for hunt camp so I'd like to do for little$ . Any help or suggestions appreciated

Wow. A lot of great information.

Murman

$16.97

This 55 Gallon Open Clamp Bolt Top Steel Barrel is a Reconditioned Food Grade Barrel.

Features: *Used *Food Grade

I will pick one up this weekend.

I need a mentor...

Murman

I am going to Reno to pick up a few drums.

More to follow...